March 6: Maun -> Nxamaseri

We left Maun Lodge at 9:00 am, driving to Nxamaseri on 2-lane roads, with many free range cattle, goats, donkeys wandering around, including on the roadway. We stopped to let them pass (they have the right of way.) There was virtually no litter along the roads! It was flat terrain, with shrubs and small trees. Sections of the road were filled with potholes, which our driver, Prego, had to steer around, sometimes leaving the pavement entirely for stretches. We saw two kudus dart across the road and disappear into the bush; they were brown with white vertical stripes on their sides.

We were met at the driveway to the Nxamaseri Island Lodge by our guide, Fish, who drove us a short distance through the bush and parked. We then embarked on a motorboat for a ride down the Nxamaseri Channel to the island where the lodge is located, following a hippo road, or opening in the aquatic grasses kept open by hippopotami, one of which we saw. There was an abundance of birds and water lilies, upon whose leaves strode African Jacanas on long legs and toes. Papyrus and reeds line the channel.

  • Nxamaseri Channel

The lodge is very peaceful, all wood, with open-air terrace, lounge, bar, and dining room, and a  welcoming staff. Adele and Arno are our hosts; we’re their only guests. Tonight we have a sunset cruise with Fish. I have a nice private cabin; I saw a water monitor lizard, a meter long, on the bank below, sliding into the water.

  • Approaching Nxamaseri Island Lodge

In the late afternoon we went on a river cruise, where we saw two more hippos, many brightly-colored birds with exotic calls: bee eaters, go-away birds, weaver birds, etc. Fish demonstrated how to eat the soft interior tissue of papyrus stalks and how to make a necklace out of a water lily. We continued down the channel to the main Okavango River before turning around. It rained on the way home, but we donned ponchos supplied by Fish. That evening there was a spectacular full double rainbow in the setting sun.

  • Fish Eating Papyrus

During the lovely dinner with our hosts, we spotted a 4-meter crocodile swimming past the dock. To bed with a chorus of frogs and birds, and hippos grunting and splashing below.

March 7: Nxamaseri Lodge